Quetzaltenango/Xela – My Final Stop In The Western Highlands

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All About Quetzaltenango (aka “Xela”)

After an incredible few days across the Western Highlands of Guatemala, it was time for my final stop, the third largest city in Guatemala, Quetzaltenango, also known locally, and historically, as Xela.

Xela is a culturally rich Mayan city, proclaimed as the current capital of the Mayan empire. Xela was the name of history, (Xelajú in K’iche Mayan), and one of the largest cities of the Mam Empire, part of the Mayans.

When the Spanish arrived in the 16th Century, they named it as Quetzaltenango, or “Place Of The Quetzal Bird”. But today, most locals still call it Xela. In the 1820s and 1830s it was a district capital in the short-lived “Federal Republic of Central America“.

I had a wonderful time in the city, exploring it’s downtown area, the theater district, and then a final hike up to the mirador, to see Xela from above.

WanderBeard Riding Chicken Bus From Momostenango to Xela Quetzaltenango Guatemala WanderBeard — View Of Pologua Guatemala From Bus To Xela Quetzaltenango

Another View Of Pologua Guatemala From Bus To Xela Quetzaltenango WanderBeard — View Of Pologua Guatemala From Bus To Xela Quetzaltenango

Casa Julia Hostal In Xela

Once arriving in Xela, I grabbed a taxi up to the place I was staying, to get checked in. Passing through the city, it was clearly a beautiful place, very walkable, and very historic.

I stayed at Casa Julia in Xela during my time there, and it was excellent. A nice mix of private rooms, with private bathrooms, as well as shared kitchen space. I initially found them via booking.com, but then contacted them directly via WhatsApp here: +502 4725 7518. It was Q85 per night (C$15 / US$11), which was a FANTASTIC value. Highly recommended. Hot water showers, great wifi and a view to die for:

View Of Quetzaltenango, Guatemala From Casa Julia Xela Hotel — View Of Xela Quetzaltenango From Casa Julia Xela Hotel Quetzaltenango Guatemala

So Many Food Options!

I also found a few incredible places to eat while in town. I went to the nearby supermarket “Mas Y Mas” to pick up things for breakfast and snacks and stuff, and then would go out for dinners.

Caldo De Res Comedor Tipico Tiguila Restaurant Xela Quetzaltenango Guatemala WanderBeard — Quick Breakfast at El rico Quetzalteco

Quetzaltenango’s Main Square

The main square of Xela is a great place. Lots of history, great for people watching, and just a great local vibe. I really enjoyed just watching the day go by, wandering through the park and listening to the sounds.

Municipalidad de Quetzaltenango Municipal Building Xela Guatemala WanderBeard — Municipal Building

Catedral del Espiritu Santo Metropolitana de Los Altos Cathedral Zela Quetzaltenango Guatemala WanderBeard — Municipal Building

Quetzaltenango Mirador (Lookoff)

On my last day, I decided to test my own will (and sanity) and hike up to the lookoff (mirador) overlooking Xela. It was estimated to take around an hour, so I expected it to take two. I’m slow. And old. And out of shape (but improving).
It was an incredible hike up the hill, and one I’ll remember for a long time. You can drive up the entire way, or hire a taxi to get you there. Or, you can do the hike up through town, then the dirt trail.

Hiking Quetzaltenango Xela Mirador Lookoff Western Highlands Guatemala WanderBeard — Starting The Hike Up To The Lookoff

Overlooking Quetzaltenango Xela Mirador Lookoff Western Highlands Guatemala WanderBeard — Starting The Hike Up To The Lookoff

But I made it in the end, and it was well worth it. This hike starts around 2200m above sea level in Xela, and ends up at 2580m. So it’s a pretty steep climb for the length. Bring good shoes with a grip too. The dirt is almost like powder and can cause you to slip, not something you really want to do in that situation.

Hiking Trail Path I Took

Hike Route To Quetzaltenango Xela Lookoff Western Highlands Guatemala WanderBeard

This was the route up the hill. This was after I’d already starting walking up through town, but you can see the constant incline at the bottom. I’m sure for lots of people out there, this would be a casual stroll.
I’m happy for you, truly. haha

WanderBeard At Quetzaltenango Mirador Lookoff Western Highlands Guatemala WanderBeard

Here’s my happy/relieved face at the top. It was a good day. The trip down only took about 30 minutes.
Thanks, gravity.

YouTube Vlog From Xela!

If you’d like to watch the video of my hike adventures, you can do so here:

Let me know your thoughts on Xela below! ✌️